Day 166 Middle Hut

The trail and the creek are sometimes the same

NSW Day 24 Saturday 6th November, 2021 19.4km

3241.5 / 1857.4 km

Today is a repeat of yesterday times many. The track down by the river is overgrown and some of the creek crossings are hairy as I try to avoid taking my boots off.

I've got to go back down

About the third crossing coming out of the creek I spy a red belly black in the grass. This one moved out of the way fairly quick but it puts me on alert and over the course of the day I spy two more. They must hunt along the brook. I keep calling it a creek but it's name is Kunderang Brook.

Breakfast is always a beautiful spot

I make a blue early on when the trail intersects another trail. The notes just mention the intersection then to continue to follow the creek. I was halfway up a hill when I felt something was wrong. It's not like the track doesn't climb away from the creek going over spurs etc. I went the 800 or so metres back to the creek but there is no other track. I just about climbed back up but decided to push through the scrub beside the creek for a look. About 100 metres on the brook trail reappears beside the creek. The trick would be to walk up in the actual creek around the thick scrub.

A trail sign

Around midday I come across Middle Hut. I decided not to stick around and try and move as far up the track as possible. I'm looking for a spot on a spur above the creek line with a little cover of grass not the jungle beside the creek or the tussocks of grass on most of the old paddocks.

The weather is predicted to turn again with heavy rain predicted. Not a time to be left with a lot of creek crossings. If I get far enough I can climb out of the valley tomorrow morning. 50 to 60 mm of rain predicted tomorrow.

The trail follows the brook but this is old grazing country

So the walk around the creek and those long steep climbs and descents over spurs. In the end I find the perfect spot just as a few showers pass over. It's been a long tiring day being on alert for snakes and the statistics say that I've climbed 1053 metres and descended 930. No wonder the legs are tired.

The overgrowth on the creek

Some growth in the waters of this section

Can't seem to get tired of the creek

Day 165 Left Hand Hut

 NSW Day 23 (165) Friday 5th November, 2021 22.3km

After the first crossing looking back at the TSR Campsite

3222.1 / 1876.8km

Up before first light as I'm supposing it's going to be a long day. I count 7 river crossings and I assume it will be boots off at all of them.

Had a few spots of rain last night but the tent fly is dry this morning. I arrived at the river crossing just with enough light to see what I was doing. A couple of cows ran across just as I got there and that gave me a good idea of the line.

River gravel and the wheel tracks to follow

So off I go. The depth is about mid shin. The rocks are a little harsh on my feet but it's OK.

Much wider crossings. Typically 10 to 15 minutes
doing the stufffor the crossing. 7 crossings nearly
1.5 extra added to the days walk.

One down and the day begins. I notice a lot of people driving around with canoes and kayaks. The big pools in the river would be ideal for them and the fisher folk.

The trail wanders along a 4wd track and crosses the river when required. I.e. the cliffs are impassable. I have no drama at any of the crossings but one where the river had split into three channels, I crossed two and put on my boots only to discover there was a third. It was too deep to chance so boots off again.

It was drizzling all morning and it wasn't until after 10 till I found a dry spot for breakfast. I'm lucky something has been through this section to clear it a bit. I don't put on my gators so if I have to push through weed as I did later the socks and legs take a beating. I'm wearing shorts.

The crossings are mainly ok as cars do them regularly. That is until Peach Crossing. The book tells

Boots off ready to go

you to use Peach Crossing I suppose so you don't go near a residence. Well the National trail people seem to be the only ones doing it and a vehicle hasn't crossed here for a long long time. The road down to the river has a locked gate and is in disrepair. That means the crossing is a bit more tricky. No obvious line where vehicles cross and the line I took was much deeper in spots. Mid thigh. You can't see the exit from the river until you are halfway across. Made it ok but this crossing needs some work.

Should have bought that fishing rod

I think there are only two more crossings after that both fairly simple. I nearly missed the climb from the river having walked past the BNT markers. I just noticed a track climbing and walked back 50 metres looking at the trees. The markers are there but after walking the river track for so long it's easy to daydream.

So then it's a long slog out of the river valley and around to Kunderang Brook Valley. This track has not been cleared and in some parts it is beginning to disappear under the weeds. I stopped to put on my gators as I was starting to get seeds in my socks. The Brook is easier to cross than the river and no boot removal is required. I still manage to get a stinging nettle across my knee.

Looking down the track to Peaches crossing
at a homestead

My plan was to get as far as possible in case heavy rain caused trouble. In the end it took most of the day to get to Left Hand Hut. A New South Wales National Parks(NSWNPWS) hut. It's in pretty good nick and I sweep out some mouse droppings so the pack will be hung with all food in it. I did set up the tent inner inside to give me but protection. It rained pretty heavy this afternoon. Only for about 10 minutes but I'm still dry. I found a fresh mouse dropping on my cereal packet since I put it on the table so I expect

Last crossing of the river

there's at least one. Hope to get a good sleep. Body battery gets depleted after a couple of long days and bad sleeps. The extra warmth of the valley disappears pretty quickly as the sun goes down. Time to snuggle down in my sleeping bag.

Looking up the Kuderang Brook Valley

The trail is a little overgrown

Left Hand Hut

My set up. I put all food in the backpack and hung it.

Day 164 Macleay River

The view in the gully

 NSW Day 22 (164) Thursday 4th November, 2021 19.8km

3199.8 / 1899.1km

Today was supposed to be a fairly simple day. As I said I look at the book every night but without it I missed the elevation profile for the day.

The track has been bladed through the rocky creeks

George's Creek is flowing fairly well and I have to finesse my way across on many crossings to keep the boots from going under. Some are easy where a dozer or something has pushed through the creek and pushed the rocks to one side and I can walk across at a minimum depth. Others I have to find an alternative or carry some rocks out and drop them in the deep holes. Except for one crossing this is quicker than the 10 minute turnaround when taking my boots off.

Typical crossing on George's Creek

So the day starts on the track beside the river which is fairly flat or going down hill with the creek. That is until I hit Mountain View homestead. Obviously the next couple of properties haven't allowed permission as you have to climb a couple of hundred metres in height to the main road.

That little exercise in the heat of the day made the legs wobble by the time I got to the top.

Then it's an 11 kilometre walk down the main road losing all that height and more. But it's not just all down hill. Throw a few steep sharp exits from gullies just to make the legs groan.

No-one offered to carry my pack

It was a pleasure to finally see the Junction of George's Creek and Macleay River. There are toilets and bins at the TSR and some good grassed areas.

I dropped the tent and went down to the river to checkout the first crossing I'll have to do in the morning. A car went across as I was there and the water was just above mid wheel. It means I have to remove my boots on these crossings. Much deeper and much wider than the creek.

The view back down to the homestead.
I'm a third of the way up.

I felt ok after a washdown and cooked a Kransky sausage to go with my noodles. Rain is predicted. I'm keeping an eye on it as if it's heavy up the hills more water will come down. I'm not sure I want to get stuck up a river for a time. Looking at the map I have to cross the river at least 7 times before heading up a Brook. I'll get up early to see the water levels then a whole day planned to get the river out of the way. Rain is predicted for the next 5 days.

Scene down the valley. The road can be seen snaking down.

The view from my campsite. Georges Creek (foreground)
meets Macleay River which is coming down centre frame

Day 163 George's Creek

View from the lookout

 NSW Day 21 (162) Wednesday 3rd November, 2021 21.7km

3180 / 1918.9km

Without a book for this section which is in the lost mail box it is hard to quickly look at what's coming next. I do have a pdf file on the phone but it's not the same. I normally look at the book every night and have a fair idea of the following couple of days. I hope they find the box as book 9 is in there as well.

The road through the forest

I climbed up from the creek to a lookout where I had fairly good signal so I was able to send photos and notes home.

Then it is a long walk through the forest and a long slow drop down into the valley to the creek.

More forest

Only saw two motorcycles today, not much to report. I had a sleep and on the track down I let loose a few tuneless songs. One problem at the moment is the March flies. Stop for any length of time and they come. As it's warm I am wearing shorts and this provides easy access. When I'm wearing long pants I can snooze as I hide my hands in my armpits and drop my hat over my face. They sometimes are able to get me through my shirt but I just make it loose on the exposed side.

and more forest

The differences in temperature from up top I think at 1300 metres above sea level and down in the valley is at least 5 degrees but today it seemed more. It's also a lot more humid and I saturate my shirt very quickly without a breeze to help dry out.

I stop on a flat spot beside Georges Creek. Having a look at the flow some of the crossings may be a little tricky if I plan to leave my boots on.

Something to worry about tomorrow

going down there

the track down

Camped beside the first flowing creek

Day 162 Ebor south

Up the highway

NSW Day 20 (162) Tuesday 2nd November, 2021 17km

3158.3 / 1940.6km

It was a cold morning getting up. But I packed the bag ready. It was going to be heavy with 12 days food on board. With only 16 kilometres today I wasn't in a big hurry so we sat a percolated some coffee and generally procrastinated.

I eventually put the pack on and said goodbye. Mushgang will see me tonight with some warm dinner. We should have gone to the pub for a last coffee. I don't drink it whilst walking as I can't get it right with powdered milk.

Across farmland

The walk is basically up the highway out of town then down the Armidale road before cutting through some paddocks. The weight seems to be bruising my hips. I'm losing fat there.

Boot Hill

Out of the farmland I pass the trout hatchery and then climb up and over to the TSR camp spot. On top of the hill I moved off the road and lay in the sun. I went to sleep for an hour. I still got to the camp before 3pm.

 Campsite beside the creek

Did all my stuff then Mushgang came down with a cooking pot of marinated chicken pieces (Aldi of course) and steamed potato and sweet potato. Cooked in his Aldi pot on his coals. His oven is a dryer drum which houses the fire. On top of that is a tyre rim that lifts the pots above the coals and he has a domed lid from an old BBQ I think, to seal it all up as an oven when required. Since I've been here we have had some rump steak, potato and beans. Trout with potato rosti and marinated chicken pieces with potato. All on the fire or gas burner. Pizza on Sunday was complements of the Ebor Pub. They also have a good home made apple pie. Oh well back to noodles and tuna. Although this week I'm trying a German sausage with cheese as my protein. With the preservatives the 4 sausages should last a couple of days without refrigeration. I can cook or have cold. See how they go.

Mushgang's Oven

Days 159 - 161 Ebor

 NSW 17 18 19 Saturday 30th October to Monday 1st November

EBOR

Woke up in Mushgang's shed. It is cold and chilly and I had to get my boots dry and do some washing.

Mushgang looking down Guy Fawkes River

When you walk you get to appreciate how little you need. Mushgang doesn't have much but after sleeping in comfort and having a hot shower it is more than enough to satisfy. He needs to sort out bloody Telstra so the phone signal will work in the shed not 5 metres in front of the shed in the cold biting wind.

Ebor Falls

After not receiving my parcel, it's decided to wait for Mondays post before going into Armidale to restock for the next leg. So today we sat and talked whilst the washing was getting done. Then a trip to the pub for a coffee and I found a slice of chocolate cake. We then walked over to the falls and checked out the cemetery. We go down to visit Mushgang's horses each evening and later decide to go fish for trout for dinner. I was a bit dubious but to his word Mushgang caught some trout which we went home and cooked for dinner. You have to be careful as he might decide to have kangaroo stew or turtle soup.

Dorrigo Train Museum

Sunday we went about like tourists. First stop was Dorrigo. There are a number of steam engines and carriages stored here waiting for bureaucratic red tape to unwind so they can get a working museum going. I decided to join the society to give a donation to the cause. If it ever gets up and running I will return.

Next stop was the Dorrigo National Park. Little bit overcast and drizzly but worth a visit. We travelled down the range to have a look at Bellingen, a town that closes at 2pm. I did get to look at some leather work and I finally found some Pepsi Max. Haven't seen it anywhere in Ebor, back up the range where I shouted a pub dinner. I've been keeping Mushgang up past his bedtime and it's taking its toll.

From skywalk at National park

Monday no parcel coming so we head to Armidale to do my resupply shopping. Excellent coffee shop. There was a storm through here halfway from Ebor and it looked like a tornado touched down. There was a 50metre or so wide path of destruction over the hill. And lots of trees down beside the road. I shopped for all the things I think I need and we returned to Ebor. Caught a rabbit but we had Aldi chicken pieces for dinner. Mushgang eventually swapped the rabbit for two trout. Made sure I was gone though.

I can't thank Mushgang enough for putting me up for the weekend and listening to my dribble. We had some laughs and solved nothing but the discussions were great. He is a great ambassador for the trail and an angel to us travellers.

Tornado path over the hill

Mushgang requires you to catch your own dinner

Day 158 Ebor

Up the first part

NSW Day 16 (158) Friday 29th October, 2021 21.5km walking 38.1km total

3141.3 / 1957.6km

Bit drizzly this morning but nice and cool for the climb out of the valley.

I pack up and start the climb. The book says it in a couple of stages. Going to be climbing McDonald's Ridge and gaining about 500 metres in height over the first couple of kilometres.

As I climb it rains and the clouds move across in patches, I take photos when I can and walk as best I can.

The initial climb finishes in about 2.5 kilometres but then you meander across the ridge gradually getting higher and higher peaks. Each time I get up top of one I think "surely this is it?" but I think it's about 5 more peaks before I stand on the tallest part of the Ridge. I then cross some open farmland where I picked up a herd of cows then finally a road.

Clear view back down

The weather report talked about severe thunderstorms and hail with reports some hail the size of golf balls. I hot foot it down the road calculating in my head how long it would take me to get to Ebor. With daylight saving I might have to walk an hour on the dark but I would need to cover nearly 40 kilometres. I'm a bit slow coming up the ridge and I was running all the scenarios through my head when a car came down the road. As usual I walk into the gutter but the car stops down the road. I start walking and a man jumps out and starts taking a picture of me. It dawns on me this must be Mushgang from Ebor. He had heard the weather warning and asked Belinda where I was and came out to meet me. He had bought out a meat pie and a coffee and since I was close to the designated campsite we went there to have a chat.

Up some more

In the end I decided to get a lift the last 13 or so kilometres into Ebor. I had a parcel of food being delivered to Mushgang but it was Friday and it has gone missing. So I decided to stay at Mushgang's until Mondays post before I shopped the 11 days of supplies I need to get to Nundle.

Mushgang lives very basic outside of town and the daily charge for a bed was within my budget. He has some good set-ups that gave me a hot shower. Then he offered to take me to Armidale to meet Dermot, a bicycle rider doing the trail.

We had a chat some fast food a drink at the pub and visited a bottle shop for some port. All better than a long walk in a storm.

Looking across to Marengo Falls I think?

Well actually the storm didn't eventuate over Ebor but that's not my fault. As tired as I was Mushgang kept me up till midnight and we made a fairly big dent in the port. I slept like a baby in Mushgang's shed and appreciated every drop of rain that hit the roof.

Up top had a following

Road to Ebor